India

Cultural differences extend to all sorts of little things. While allowances will usually be made for foreigners, visitors unacquainted with Indian customs may need a little preparation to avoid causing offence or making fools of themselves. The list of dos and don’ts here is hardly exhaustive: when in doubt, watch what the Indian people around you are doing. Eating and the right-hand rule The biggest minefield of potential faux pas has to do with eating. This is usually done with the fingers, and requires practice to get absolutely right. Rule one is: eat with your right hand only. In India, as right across Asia, the left hand is for wiping your bottom, cleaning your feet and other unsavoury functions (you also put on and take off your shoes with your left hand), while the right hand is for eating, shaking hands and so on. Quite how rigid individuals are about this tends to vary, with brahmins (who, at the top of the hierarchical ladder, are one of the two “right-handed castes”) and southerners likely to be the strictest. While you can hold a cup or utensil in your left hand, and you can get away with using it to help tear your chapatti, you should not eat, pass food or wipe your mouth with your left hand. This rule extends beyond food. In general, do not pass anything to anyone with your left hand, or point at anyone with it either; and Indians won’t be impressed if you put it in your mouth. In general, you should accept things given to you with your right hand – though using both hands is a sign of respect. The other rule to beware of when eating or drinking is that your lips should not touch other people’s food – jhutha, or sullied food, is strictly taboo. Don’t, for example, take a bite out of a chapatti and pass it on. When drinking out of a cup or bottle to be shared with others, don’t let it touch your lips, but rather pour it directly into your mouth. This custom also protects you from things like hepatitis. It is customary to wash your hands before and after eating. Temples and religion Religion is taken very seriously in India; it’s important always to show due respect to religious buildings, shrines, images, and people at prayer. When entering a temple or mosque, remove your shoes and leave them at the door (socks are acceptable and protect your feet from burning-hot stone ground). Some temples – Jain ones in particular – do not allow you to enter wearing or carrying leather articles, and forbid entry to menstruating women. In the southern state of Kerala, most Hindu temples are closed to non-Hindus, but those that aren’t require men to remove their shirts before entering (women must wear long dresses or skirts). In a mosque, non-Muslims would not normally be allowed in at prayer time and women are sometimes not let in at all. In a Hindu temple, you are often not allowed into the inner sanctum; and at a Buddhist stupa or monument, you should always walk round clockwise (ie, with the stupa on your right). Hindus are very superstitious about taking photographs of images of deities and inside temples; if in doubt, desist. Funeral processions are private affairs, and should be left in peace. In Hindu funerals, the body is normally carried to the cremation site within hours of death by white-shrouded relatives (white is the colour of mourning). The eldest son is expected to shave his head and wear white following the death of a parent. At Varanasi and other places, you may see cremations; such occasions should be treated with respect and photographs should not be taken. Dress Indian people are very conservative about dress. Women are expected to dress modestly, with legs and shoulders covered. Trousers are acceptable, but shorts and short skirts are offensive to many. Men should always wear a shirt in public, and avoid skimpy shorts away from beach areas. These rules are particularly important in temples and mosques. Cover your head with a cap or cloth when entering a dargah (Sufi shrine) or Sikh gurudwara; women in particular are also required to cover their limbs. Men are similarly expected to dress appropriately with their legs and head covered. Caps are usually available on loan, often free, for visitors, and sometimes cloth is available to cover up your arms and legs. Never mind sky-clad Jains or Naga Sadhus, nudity is not acceptable in India. Topless bathing is not uncommon in Goa (though it is in theory prohibited), but you can be sure the locals don’t like it. In general, Indians find it hard to understand why rich Westerners should wander round in ragged clothes or imitate the lowest ranks of Indian society, who would love to have something more decent to wear. Staying well groomed and dressing “respectably” vastly improves the impression you make on local people and reduces sexual harassment for women, too. Other possible gaffes Kissing and embracing are regarded in India as part of sex: do not do them in public. In more conservative areas (ie outside Westernized parts of big cities or tourist enclaves), it is still rare for couples to hold hands, though Indian men can sometimes be seen holding hands as a sign of “brotherliness”. Be aware of your feet. When entering a private home, you should normally remove your shoes (follow your host’s example); when sitting, avoid pointing the soles of your feet at anyone. Accidental contact with one’s foot is always followed by an apology. Indian English can be very formal and even ceremonious. Indian people may well call you “sir” or “madam”, even “good lady” or “kind sir”. At the same time, you should be aware that your English may seem rude to them. In particular, swearing is taken rather seriously, and casual use of the f-word is likely to shock. What you should expect when traveling? Because of its sheer size, there are many different ways of seeing India. Covering vast distances can be a challenge for those short on time, so it is worth researching different India travel itineraries and picking one that suits you. India, being a place of diverse culture and landscapes, is a complex country to fit in your travels with one trip. When planning a trip to India, it is important to create a checklist of exactly what you want to see to ensure you do not miss your main spots of interest. Travel safety in India Travel in India is, generally speaking, safe for visitors. As expected anywhere, a tourist may be more susceptible to petty thefts and scams, but common sense and a few precautions go a long way. Crowded places – including public transport – is first and foremost where you should keep your awareness sharp, as this is where pickpockets are most likely to operate. When staying in dorm rooms, make sure to lock up your luggage with a padlock, and keep an eye on any of your luggage you store on top of a bus and ensure it’s well secured. If you go swimming, do not leave your belongings unattended. It’s also worth mentioning that not all crimes are committed by humans: monkeys in India have been known to steal belongings not only on the street but even from hotel rooms with open windows or straight from your shoulder. Always remember that destinations and routes popular with tourists are also popular with thieves. Although it’s not common, refuse food and drink from strangers and fellow passengers, as it can be an attempt to drug and steal, too. In saying this, you shouldn’t be paranoid when travelling in India; crime rates are below many western countries and staying relaxed is the best way to experience the country. As with anywhere, just keep your wits about you.

Most travelers visiting India fly into the country and it’s not difficult to find good flights: there are multiple direct services from the UK, a few from the US and Canada, and two from Australia. There are many airlines that fly to India, and these flights usually arrive into Delhi or Mumbai. From the UK you can also reach Chennai, Hyderabad and Bengaluru without any stops. As with any destination, fares vary with the seasons. For travel in India fares are highest from November to March, typically when it’s the best time to visit most of the country. The shoulder seasons of April to May and August to early October are cheaper, and you’ll get the best flight deals during the low season of June and July. Bear in mind that air fares are higher during India’s main festivals and events, such as Diwali in October/November time. For more detail, visit our page on getting to India.

Intercity transport in India may not be the fastest or the most comfortable in the world, but it’s cheap and goes more or less everywhere. You generally have the option of train or bus, sometimes plane, and occasionally even boat. Transport around town comes in even more permutations, ranging in Kolkata, for example, from human-pulled rickshaws to a state-of-the-art metro system. Whether you’re on road or rail, public transport or your own vehicle, India offers the chance to try out some classics: narrow-gauge railways, steam locomotives, the Ambassador car and the Enfield Bullet motorbike – indeed some people come to India for these alone. BY TRAIN Travelling by train is one of India’s classic experiences. The national rail network covers almost the entire country; only a few places (such as the mountainous regions of Sikkim, Ladakh, Uttarakhand and most of Himachal Pradesh) are inaccessible by train. Although the railway system might look like chaos, it does work, and generally better than you might expect. Trains are often late, of course, sometimes by hours rather than minutes, but they do run, and when the train you’ve been waiting for rolls into the station, the reservation you made halfway across the country several weeks ago will be on a list pasted to the side of your carriage. It’s worth bearing in mind, with journeys frequently lasting twelve hours or more, that an overnight train can save you a day’s travelling and a night’s hotel bill, assuming you sleep well on trains. When travelling overnight, always padlock your bag to your bunk; an attached chain is usually provided beneath the seat of the lower bunk. Types of train There are three basic types of passenger train in India. You’re most likely to use long-distance inter-city trains (called “express” or “mail”) along with the speedier “super-fast” air-conditioned trains – these include the long-established Rajdhani expresses, which link Delhi with cities nationwide, and Shatabdi expresses, daytime trains that connect major cities, mostly within an eight-hour travelling distance, plus the newer and faster still Duronto expresses, which also link major metropolitan areas and have fewer stops. There are also painfully slow local “passenger” trains, which stop everywhere, and which you’ll only use if you want to get right off the beaten track. In addition to these three basic types of train, there are also a few dedicated tourist trains and other special services, such as the famous Palace on Wheels and the toy train to Darjeeling. Classes of train travel Indian Railways distinguishes between no fewer than eight classes of travel. Different types of train carry different classes of carriage, though you’ll seldom have more than four to choose from any one service. The simplest and cheapest class, used by the majority of Indians, is second class (II or “second seating”), which are mostly unreserved. These basic carriages have hard wooden seats and often become incredibly packed during the day – bearable for shortish daytime journeys, but best avoided for longer trips and (especially) overnight travel, unless you’re exceptionally hardy or unusually poor. On the plus side, fares in second-class unreserved are so cheap as to be virtually free. It also represents a way of getting on a train at the last minute if you haven’t been able to secure a reserved seat. Far more civilized, and only around fifty percent more expensive, is regular sleeper class (SL), consisting of carriages of three-tiered padded bunks that convert to seats during the day. All seats in these carriages must be booked in advance even for daytime journeys, meaning that they don’t get horrendously overcrowded like second-class unreserved, although there’s usually still plenty going on, with itinerant chai- and coffee-sellers, travelling musicians, beggars and sweepers passing through the carriages. Overnight trips in second-class sleeper compartments are reasonably comfy. First class (FC) consists of non-a/c seating in comfortable if ageing compartments of two to four berths, though this class is being phased out and is now seldom found. The other five classes are all air-conditioned (available only on inter-city and super-fast trains). A/c chair class (CC) cars are found almost exclusively on super-fast services and consist of comfortable reclining seats; they’re really designed for daytime travel, since they don’t convert to bunks, and aren’t generally found on overnight services. Shatabdi expresses are made up entirely of chair-car carriages – ordinary a/c chair car and, for double the price, an Executive a/c chair class (EC) car. There are three classes of air-conditioned sleepers. The cheapest, a/c 3-tier (AC3 or 3A), has open carriages with three-tier bunks – basically the same as second-class sleeper, except with a/c and bedding. Less crowded (and found on more services) is a/c 2-tier (AC2 or 2A), which has two-tier berths. Most comfortable of all is a/c first-class (AC1 or 1A), which consists of two-tier bunks in two- or four-person private compartments, complete with carpeting and relatively presentable bathrooms – although fares can work out more expensive than taking a plane. Note that bed linen is provided free on most a/c services, while bottled water, snacks and simple meals are included in the ticket price of Rajdhani, Shatabdi and Duronto services. Ladies’ compartments now only exist on suburban trains in big cities, though the number of families travelling means that single women are at least unlikely to end up in a compartment with only men. You can always ask the ticket inspector to change your seat if you feel uncomfortable. Some stations also have ladies-only waiting rooms. Timetables and fares Fares, timetables and availability of berths can be checked online at Indian Railways’ cumbersome website (indianrail.gov.in), or via the more streamlined, privately run cleartrip.com. Indian Railways’ Trains at a Glance (₹50; updated twice a year) contains timetables of all inter-city and super-fast trains and is available from information counters and newsstands at all main stations. All rail fares are calculated according to the exact distance travelled. Trains at a Glance prints a chart of fares by kilometres, and also gives the distance in kilometres of stations along each route in the time­tables, making it possible to calculate what the basic fare will be for any given journey. By way of comparison, the cost for each class of travel for a ticket from New Delhi to Mumbai is as follows: AC1 ₹4135; AC2 ₹2410; AC3 ₹1660; CC ₹875; SL ₹630; and II ₹370. Indrail passes Indrail passes, sold to foreigners and Indians resident abroad, cover all fares and reservation fees for periods ranging from half a day to ninety days, but are considerably more expensive than buying tickets individually. The pass is designed for nationwide travel, so if you only use it, say, between Delhi, Agra and the cities of Rajasthan, you won’t be getting your money’s worth. It does, however, save you queuing for tickets, allow you to make and cancel reservations without charge and generally smooths your way in. For example, if you need to find a seat or berth on a “full” train, pass-holders get priority for tourist quota places. Indrail passes are available, in sterling or US dollars, at main station tourist counters in India and outside the country at IR agents and sometimes at Air India offices. A seven-day pass costs US$80 in SL or II, US$135 in FC, AC2/AC3 and CC, and US$270 in AC1. There’s a full list of prices and overseas IR agents at indianrail.gov.in/international_Tourist.html. Reserving tickets It’s important to plan your train journeys in advance, as demand often makes it impossible to buy a long-distance ticket on the same day that you want to travel – although the Tatkal quota system has made life a little easier. Travellers following tight itineraries tend to buy their departure tickets from particular towns the moment they arrive to avoid having to trek out to the station again. At most large stations, it’s possible to reserve tickets for journeys starting elsewhere in the country. Online booking is best done via the privately run cleartrip.com, which accepts foreign Visa cards and MasterCards (with a 1.8 percent fee, plus an additional ₹20 booking charge); you will first have to register with them and Indian Railways (irctc.co.in) – check out seat61.com/India.htm#book-fromoutside for a clear explanation of this convoluted procedure. Bookings may be made from 120 days in advance right up to four hours before the scheduled departure time of the train. Cleartrip.com also handles Tatkal tickets (see below). Having booked your travel, you can then print out your own e-tickets, taking this along with some photo ID, such as a passport, when you board the train. A viable alter­native to Cleartrip.com is makemytrip.com, which also accepts some foreign credit cards. When reserving a ticket in person at a railway station, the first thing you’ll have to do is fill in a little form at the booking office stating your name, age and sex, your proposed date of travel, and the train you wish to catch (giving the train’s name and number). Most stations have computerized booking counters and you’ll be told immediately whether or not seats are available. Reservation offices in the main stations are generally open from Monday to Saturday from 8am to 8pm, and on Sunday to 2pm. In larger cities, major stations have special tourist sections to cut queues for foreigners, with helpful English-speaking staff. Elsewhere, buying a ticket can often involve a longish wait, though women often have dedicated queues or can try simply walking to the head of the queue and forming their own “ladies’ queue”. A few stations also operate a number system of queueing, allowing you to repair to the chai stall until your number is called. A good alternative to queueing yourself is to get someone else to buy your ticket for you. Many travel agents will do this for a small fee (typically around Rs50–100); alternatively, ask at your guesthouse if they can sort it out. Quotas and late-availability tickets If there are no places available on the train you want, you have a number of choices. First, some seats and berths are set aside as a “tourist quota” – ask at the tourist counter of the reservations hall if you can get in on this, or else try the stationmaster. This quota is available in advance but usually only at major or originating stations. Failing that, other special quotas, such as one for “emergencies”, only released on the day of travel, may remain unused – however, if you get a booking on the emergency quota and a pukka emergency or VIP turns up, you lose the reservation. Alternatively, you can stump up extra cash for a Tatkal ticket, which guarantees you access to a special ten percent quota on most trains, though certain catches and conditions apply. Bookable online and at any computerized office, these are released from 10am the day before the train departs, and there’s a surcharge of Rs75–300, depending on the class of travel. RAC – or “Reservation Against Cancellation” – tickets are another option, giving you priority if sleepers do become available. The ticket clerk should be able to tell you your chances. With an RAC ticket you are allowed onto the train and can sit until the conductor can find you a berth. The worst sort of ticket to have is a wait-listed one – identifiable by the letter “W” prefixing your passenger number – which will allow you onto the train (though not Shatabdi, Rajdhani or Duronto trains) but not in a reserved compartment; in this case go and see the ticket inspector (TTI) as soon as possible to persuade him to find you a place if one is free. For short journeys or on minor routes you won’t need to reserve tickets in advance. Luxury tourist trains Inspired by the Orient Express, Indian Railways offers high-end holiday packages aboard luxury tourist trains. The flagship of the scheme is the Palace on Wheels, with sumptuous ex-maharajas’ carriages updated into modern air-conditioned coaches, still decorated with the original designs. An all-inclusive, eight-day whistle-stop tour (Sept–April weekly) starts at US$2882 per person for the full trip, with the cheapest rates off-season (Sept and April). Note that the train is often booked up for months ahead, so early reservations are advised. The Palace on Wheels has proved so popular that it has spawned a number of similar heritage trains, including Royal Rajasthan on Wheels and Maharajas’ Express. Details of all these tours, including fares, can be found on the Palace on Wheels website. BY PLANE Considering the huge distances involved in getting around the country, and the time it takes to get from A to B, flying is an attractive option, despite the cost – the journey from Delhi to Chennai, for example, takes a mere 2 hours 30 minutes by plane compared to 36 hours on the train. Delays and cancellations can whittle away the time advantage, especially over small distances, but if you’re short of time and plan to cover a lot of ground, flying can be a godsend. There was a proliferation of private airlines in the early years of the millennium and after a few failures, most notably Kingfisher Airlines, a further crop has popped up in recent years. Booking flights is most easily done online via the airline’s website. Larger carriers also have offices in major cities. Children under twelve pay half fare and under-twos (one per adult) pay ten percent. Domestic airlines Air India Air India Express Air Pegasus FLYeasy Go Air IndiGo Airlines Jet Airways/JetKonnect. SpiceJet Vistara

Most tourists require a visa in order to travel to India. Luckily, over the years the process for getting a standard tourist visa has been streamlined. Nowadays, online applications are the main way to obtain a visa for a shorter visit. For people who plan to study or work in India, it’s necessary to apply for a special visa. As mentioned, online visa applications are the most common and efficient way to gain entry into India, and this produces an e-Tourist visa. Citizens of the UK, Ireland, US, Canada Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, and many more countries are eligible for an e-Tourist visa through the Indian government’s official online portal. They’re valid for one year from the date of issue for a stay of 90 days during each visit (multiple visits are allowed). Just make sure you secure it at least four days – and no more than 30 – before you travel. For the application, you’ll need your travel details, a photo of yourself to upload and pay the online fee. Make sure you print out the eTV and take it with you to India; upon showing this, you’ll be issued your visa on arrival. If you own a passport from a country not included on the eTV list, you’ll need to apply for a standard tourist visa. Like the eTV, it’s valid for one year from the date of issue, but you can stay for up to 180 days on one visit. Fees vary greatly across nationalities and you’ll need to check on the respective website.

Because a caste system existed in India for many centuries, people continue to be highly aware of social hierarchy and their place within it. Age, academic degree and profession all help to determine status; so does caste, to this day. First greet the oldest or most senior individual in a group. Those with titles should be addressed using their titles. Use “Sir” or “Madam” for those without professional titles. Don’t call people by their first names unless invited to do so, especially when addressing older Indians. Physical Contact Compared to Westerners, Indians are not given to much physical contact; they are a much more reserved society. Men might exchange handshakes with each other, and women might shake hands with each other, but a man and a woman will rarely shake each other’s hand. Refrain from public displays of affection and do not touch anyone’s head. Both are considered improper. Avoid even casually touching people. Be Patient When speaking, Indians do not express themselves as directly as Westerners. They will politely make small-talks, say things you want to hear and avoid making quick decisions. They are very conscious of following protocol, so major decisions are made at higher levels. Be prepared for delays and vague replies. Do not show frustration or lose your temper; Indians are non-confrontational. You are more likely to get what you want by being courteous, patient and persistent. Table Manners Don’t seat yourself. Wait for someone to tell you where to sit. It is customary to decline the first offer of any refreshments. You may accept later when the offer is repeated. At a formal meal, the guest of honor is usually served first, then the men and children. Traditionally, the women will serve the men and eat later. Indians eat using the right hand. Leaving a little food on your plate means you have eaten your fill. An empty plate means you are still hungry.

Virtually every temple in every town or village across the country has its own festival. The biggest and most spectacular include Puri’s Rath Yatra festival in June or July, the Hemis festival in Ladakh, also held in June or July, Pushkar’s camel fair in November, Kullu’s Dussehra, Madurai’s three annual festivals and, of course, the Kumbh Mela, held in turn at Allahabad, Haridwar, Nasik and Ujjain. While mostly religious in nature, merrymaking rather than solemnity is generally the order of the day, and onlookers are invariably welcome. Indeed, if you’re lucky enough to coincide with a local festival, it may well prove to be the highlight of your trip. The calendar below includes details of the main national and regional celebrations. Hindu, Sikh, Buddhist and Jain festivals follow the Indian lunar calendar and their dates therefore vary from year to year – we’ve given the lunar month (Magha, Phalguna, Chaitra, and so on), where relevant. The lunar calendar adds a leap month every two or three years to keep it in line with the seasons. Muslim festivals follow the Islamic calendar, whose year is shorter and which thus loses about eleven days per annum against the Gregorian. In recent years, there has been an explosion in the number of contemporary, pop and fusion music festivals, as India develops a circuit something like the UK and other parts of Europe. Examples include Festa de Diu, Ragasthan, Jodhpur RIFF and Magnetic Fields. You may, while in India, be lucky enough to be invited to a wedding. These are jubilant affairs, always scheduled on auspicious days. A Hindu bride dresses in red for the ceremony, and marks the parting of her hair with red sindur and her forehead with a bindi. She wears gold or bone bangles, which she keeps on for the rest of her married life. Although the practice is officially illegal, large dowries often change hands. These are usually paid by the bride’s family to the groom, and can be contentious; poor families feel obliged to save for years to get their daughters married. Principal Indian holidays India has only four national public holidays as such: Jan 26 (Republic Day); Aug 15 (Independence Day); Oct 2 (Gandhi’s birthday); and Dec 25 (Christmas Day). Each state, however, has its own calendar of public holidays; you can expect most businesses to close on the major holidays of their own religion. The Hindu lunar calendar months are given in brackets here. Key: B=Buddhist; C=Christian; H=Hindu; J=Jain; M=Muslim; N=non-religious; P=Parsi; S=Sikh. Jan–Feb (Magha–Phalguna) Non-religious Hampi Utsav: Government-sponsored music and dance festival. International Kite Festival/Uttarayan (Jan 14). Coinciding with Makar Sankranti, Ahmedabad (Gujarat) hosts the most spectacular of all of India’s kite festivals. Republic Day (Jan 26): A military parade in Delhi typifies this state celebration of India’s republic-hood, followed on Jan 29 by the “Beating the Retreat” ceremony outside the presidential palace in Delhi. Elephanta Music and Dance Festival. Classical Indian dance performed with the famous rock-cut caves in Mumbai harbour as a backdrop. Hindu Pongal (1 Magha): Tamil harvest festival celebrated with decorated cows, processions and rangolis (chalk designs on the doorsteps of houses). Pongal is a sweet porridge made from newly harvested rice and eaten by all, including the cows. The festival is also known as Makar Sankranti, and celebrated in Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh and the east of India. Sagar Mela: Pilgrims come from all over the country to Sagardwip, on the mouth of the Hooghly 150km south of Kolkata, to bathe during Makar Sankranti. Vasant Panchami (5 Magha): One-day spring festival in honour of Saraswati, the goddess of learning, celebrated with kite-flying, the wearing of yellow saris and the blessing of schoolchildren’s books and pens by the goddess. Teppa Floating Festival (16 Magha). Meenakshi and Shiva are towed around the Vandiyur Mariamman Teppakulam tank in boats lit with fairy lights – a prelude to the Tamil marriage season in Madurai, Tamil Nadu. Feb–March (Phalguna) Buddhist Losar (1 Phalguna): Tibetan New Year celebrations among Tibetan and Himalayan Buddhist communities, especially at Dharamsala (HP). Hindu Shivratri (10 Phalguna): Anniversary of Shiva’s tandav (creation) dance, and his wedding anniversary. Popular family festival but also a sadhu festival of pilgrimage and fasting, especially at important Shiva temples. Holi (15 Phalguna): Water festival held during Dol Purnima (full moon) to celebrate the beginning of spring, most popular in the north. Expect to be bombarded with water, paint, coloured powder and other mixtures; they can permanently stain clothing, so don’t go out in your Sunday best. Non-religious Khajuraho Festival of Dance: The country’s finest dancers perform in front of Madhya Pradesh’s famous erotic sculpture-carved shrines. Goa Carnival: Goa’s own Mardi Gras features float processions and feni-induced mayhem in the state capital, Panjim. March–April (Chaitra) Hindu Gangaur (3 Chaitra): Rajasthani festival (also celebrated in Bengal and Odisha) in honour of Gauri (Parvati), marked with singing and dancing. Ramanavami (9 Chaitra): Birthday of Rama, the hero of the Ramayana, celebrated with readings of the epic and discourses on Rama’s life and teachings. Christian Easter (moveable feast): Celebration of the resurrection of Christ. Good Friday in particular is a day of festivity. Parsi Pateti:Parsi new year, also known as Nav Roz, celebrating the creation of fire. Feasting, services and present-giving. Khorvad Sal (a week after Pateti): Birthday of Zarathustra (aka Zoroaster). Celebrated in the Parsis’ fire temples, and with feasting at home. April–May (Vaisakha) Hindu Baisakhi (1 Vaisakha): To the Hindus, it’s the solar new year, celebrated with music and dancing Chithirai: Lively procession at Madurai in Tamil Nadu. See p.1016. Puram: Frenzied drumming and elephant parades in Thrissur, Kerala. Sikh Baisakhi (1 Vaisakha): it’s the anniversary of the foundation of the Khalsa (Sikh brotherhood) by Guru Gobind Singh. Processions and feasting follow readings of the Granth Sahib scriptures. Jain Mahavir Jayanti (13 Vaisakha):Birthday of Mahavira, the founder of Jainism. The main Jain festival of the year, observed by visits to sacred Jain sites, especially in Rajasthan and Gujarat, and with present-giving. Buddhist Buddha Jayanti (16 Vaisakha): Buddha’s birthday. He achieved enlightenment and nirvana on the same date. Sarnath (UP) and Bodh Gaya (Bihar) are the main centres of celebration. May–June (Jyaishtha) Hindu Ganga Dussehra (10 Jyaishtha): Bathing festival to celebrate the descent to earth of the goddess of the Ganges. June–July (Ashadha) Hindu Rath Yatra (2 Ashadha): Festival held in Puri (and other places, especially in the south) to commemorate Krishna’s (Lord Jagannath’s) journey to Mathura. Teej (3 Ashadha): Festival in honour of Parvati to welcome the monsoon. Particularly celebrated in Rajasthan. Buddhist Hemis Tsechu Held sometime between late June and mid-July, this spectacular Ladakh festival features chaam (lama dances) to signify the victory of Buddhism over evil. July–Aug (Shravana) Hindu Naag Panchami (3 Shravana): Snake festival in honour of the naga snake deities. Mainly celebrated in Rajasthan and Maharashtra. Raksha Bandhan/Narial Purnima (16 Shravana): Festival to honour the sea god Varuna. Brothers and sisters exchange gifts, the sister tying a thread known as a rakhi to her brother’s wrist. Brahmins, after a day’s fasting, change the sacred thread they wear. Non-religious Independence Day (Aug 15): India’s biggest secular celebration, on the anniversary of Independence from the UK. Aug–Sept (Bhadraparda) Hindu Ganesh Chaturthi (4 Bhadraparda): Festival dedicated to Ganesh, especially celebrated in Maharashtra. In Mumbai, huge processions carry images of the god to immerse in the sea. Onam: Keralan harvest festival, celebrated with snake-boat races. The Nehru Trophy Snake Boat Race at Alappuzha (held on the 2nd Sat of Aug) is the most spectacular, with long boats crewed by 150 rowers. Janmashtami (23 Bhadraparda): Krishna’s birthday, an occasion for fasting and celebration, especially in Agra, Mathura and Vrindavan (UP). Sept–Oct (Ashvina) Hindu Dussehra/Dasara (1–10 Ashvina): Ten-day festival (usually two days’ public holiday) associated with vanquishing demons, in particular Rama’s victory over Ravana in the Ramayana, and Durga’s over the buffalo-headed Mahishasura (particularly in West Bengal, where it is called Durga Puja). Dussehra (known as Dasara in south India) celebrations include performances of the Ram Lila (life of Rama). Best in Mysuru (Karnataka), Ahmedabad (Gujarat) and Kullu (Himachal Pradesh). Durga Puja is best seen in Kolkata where it is an occasion for exchanging gifts, and every locality has its own competing street-side image. Non-religious Mahatma Gandhi’s Birthday (Oct 2): Solemn commemoration of independent India’s founding father. Oct–Nov (Kartika) Hindu Diwali (Deepavali) (15 Kartika): Festival of lights, and India’s biggest, to celebrate Rama’s and Sita’s homecoming in the Ramayana. Festivities include the lighting of oil lamps and firecrackers, and the giving and receiving of sweets and gifts. Diwali coincides with Kali Puja, celebrated in temples dedicated to the wrathful goddess, especially in Bengal, and often accompanied by the ritual sacrifice of goats. Jain Jain New Year (15 Kartika): Coincides with Diwali, so Jains celebrate alongside Hindus. Sihk Nanak Jayanti (16 Kartika): Guru Nanak’s birthday marked by prayer readings and processions, especially in Amritsar and in the rest of the Punjab, and at Patna (Bihar). Nov–Dec (Margashirsha or Agrahayana) Hindu Sonepur Mela: World’s largest cattle fair at Sonepur (Bihar). Non-religious Pushkar Camel Fair: Camel herders don their finest attire for this massive livestock market on the fringes of the Thar Desert in Rajasthan. Dec–Jan (Pausa) Non-religious Poush Mela (Dec 22–25): Held in Shantiniketan near Kolkata, this festival is renowned for its musical performances by Bauls (mystic minstrels). Christian Christmas (Dec 25): Popular in Christian areas of Goa and Kerala, and in big cities. Moveable H Kumbh Mela: Major festival held at four holy cities in rotation, with each location hosting once every twelve years: Allahabad (UP), Nasik (Maharashtra), Ujjain (MP) or Haridwar (Uttarakhand). The Allahabad event is the most important and drew 120 million people in 2013; there are also Ardh (half) Kumbh Melas in between, the next at Allahabad in 2019. M Ramadan: The month during which Muslims may not eat, drink or smoke from sunrise to sunset, and should abstain from sex. Muslim areas tend to come alive in the evenings as locals break their fast after prayers (iftar) and shop for Id. Estimated future dates are: May 27 to June 25, 2017, May 16 to June 14, 2018, and May 6 to June 4, 2019. M Id ul-Fitr: Feast to celebrate the end of Ramadan. The precise date of the festival depends on exactly when the new moon is sighted, and so cannot be predicted with complete accuracy. Estimated dates (though these may vary by a day or two) are: June 26, 2017, June 15, 2018, and June 5, 2019.

Below is our cancellation and refund policy: 🔸 60 days prior to arrival date: No cancellation charge for the land cost. We guarantee 100% of the land cost back. The airline cancellation fees are applied according to the airline's policy. 🔸 59 - 30 days prior to arrival date: 5% cancellation charge + airfare cancellation fees 🔸 29 - 15 days prior to arrival date: 10% + airfare cancellation fees. 🔸 14 - 8 days prior to arrival date: 40 + airfare cancellation fees. 🔸 7 days prior to arrival date: 100% 🔸 No show: 100% Please note that the domestic flight tickets in the package are non-refundable